Wednesday, September 22, 2021

 Week 38 The Great River Road - Week 38 - September 20 - September 26, 2021

Say 1 - Monday September 20

We left our nice rest area and headed south to Le Claire. It turned out to be a great muiseum.  Buffalo Bill was born in   which is why the museum is here but he did most of his stuff in the west.  We learned a lot of things...mainly that he was likely the best known American in in the 1800's because of his Wild West Show.  Also, he killed a lot of buffalo - he was hired by a railroad to kill buffalo to feed their workers.  But...he likely killed more than were ever eaten because it was a challenge to see ow man could be killed in one hunt.  The museum also contained a ton of other stuff which was good too, but still just old stuff.  Included in the museum was the Lone Star, a wooden steam boat that you could walk in and around.    The average life of a steamboat was about five year, likely because thee was a huge coal fired steam boiler on board that had very little insulation.  they blew up, burned up, sank, and so forth.  I think it must have been a hard life.  Even into the 1950s some sold steamboats were used to push logs up and down the Mississippi.   We really loved the steam boat - it fit right in to our quest to learn about the Mississippi.


Then we went to Kalona, Iowa because it is an Amish/Mennonite area and there is a museum.  Well, we did see an Amish man with a horse and buggy parking before he went into a 7/11.  The "village" is a collection of old buildings from the pioneer prairie era that had been moved to this city.  We went from building to building  In the Mennonite Museum we did learn new things..  We asked the docent lots of questions about Amish and Mennonite and Anabaptist beliefs.  Most of the stuff in the museum came from belongings of the first three Amish/Mennonite families who came to the area.

It was all good but had nothing to do with the river - quite possibly because we had driven miles to the west of the river through fields and fields and more fields of corn that are waiting to be harvested and sent to the ethanol factory somewhere.


We had the best hamburger in Kalona at a Greek  restaurant.  The fries were the best we've ever eaten.


We headed back to the river to Davenport and crossed over into Illinois.  Thee was a rest area (with no facilities) a bit south of Andalusia that we thought we'd stay at, but upon arriving the sign said closed at 10:00 pm.  Not that we are afraid of breaking the rules, but we didn't want a kindly sheriff to be knocking on our door during the night.  

We saw a free campground on the free camping website, but it was confusing and we couldn't get any definite information about it by calling or online.  We went back to Andalusia to a little ice cream shop to as "is there anywhere we can park for the night?"  All four people who were either eating or serving ice cream immediately said go to the Loud Thunder Forest Reserve.....just down the road.  Sure enough, there is was right where the freecamping.net site had it on the map.  We drove in and went down a windy road to find three or four very rustic pull-ins, and we pulled in.  Just in time too, because it started raining and there was a lot of thunder and lightening. It was really hot inside the camper, but fortunately, there was no  wind so we could have the windows open and not have rainwater leaking in.

It was very quiet and peaceful.


Day 2 - Tuesday - September 21

Our plan was to go to a city (can remember which one) to go to a steamboat museum.  But, you're right, it was closed.  We decided, instead, to go to Hannibal, Missouri to the Mark Twain museum.  Hannibal is a very nice town which has created a historic downtown area that, probably, closely resembles the town when Sam Clemens lived there  .We went through the many of the original buildings and learned more about Mark Twain than is necessary. I bought an illustrated book of Tom Sawyer and would like to read it to grandchildren,


After that, we headed back north on the Illinois side to go to Nauvoo and meet up with Jenny and Larry, and Will.   They have purchased three houses in Nauvoo.  One they rent out on a daily basis

(Air B&B), one they are going to rent out on a daily basis after they buy some furnishings, and a third one they are totally remodeling with plans to move into by Christmas.  Right now they are renting a two bedroom house .  These four houses are all within three blocks of each other.  They seem to be doing well in Nauvoo.  Larry, especially, seems to be better.  He is talking well, his face looks good, and he can walk everywhere.  The move has been good for them.


We ate dinner with them and talked for several hours.  It is good to seem them again.

Wednesday, September 15, 2021

 


Week 37 The Great River Road - Week 37 - September 13 -  September 19, 2021

Day 1 - Monday












We finally left about 10:30 because Dad had to go to Home Depot to buy lath and double headed nails so our workers might be able to put new plastic on greenhouses while we are gone.  Oh -I also finished stacking the firewood in the basement.  And it was the first day of school.





















School us stop is still at the end of our driveway.





















We headed east on I84, and the first stop was in Cascade Locks






















For!!!!




































We drove on the interstates until we got to Spokane.  Kinda boring.

























We crossed into Idaho, and I took a photo of Lake Cour d'Lean (or however it is spelled) to send to Travis so he knows what he is missing .




Our goal for the day was to get into Montana and find a rest stop.  This part of Montana is great = like the Clackamas River on steroids.
























The bathrooms are fabulous.  They put Oregon's bathrooms to shame. There are only individual rooms on each side - 4 for women and 4 for men.
















































We were a bit anxious about this sign as we approached the entrance, I guess this is Montana,

































Hmm = what is this









































Good grief  Its a bear proof waste can right by the door,  Yea!!  Montana!!!


























Day 2 - Tuesday

We left relatively early with the goal of getting to the other side of Montana in one day.

The road we traveled on through the westernmost part of the mountains is described by this sign.























But, once out of the mountains we encountered flatness and more flatness






























































Our rest area was bit east of the border with South Dakota - no we didn't make it through Montana in a day.















































Day 3 - Wednesday
Goal for today - drive all the way through North Dakota, don't eat too many potato chips, don't eat any more Oreos.







































































We were surprised to come upon the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  We'd never heard of it.  Because we have our wonderful senior pass to National Parks, we decided to visit it - at least the Visitors Center.  The park itself is really big and is designed to br a wildlife refuge.  We didn't stay - needs to be a several day adventure.









































We crossed the Missouri River and sang, "O Shenandoah, I love your daughter.....cross the wide Missouri."


























Reaching our goal for the day, we crossed into Minnesota in the early evening and found a lovely Rest Area near Frazee, MN.  There was a geocache, and we found it hidden in the woods (hope there are no ticks in MN)























































































Day 4 - Thursday - September 16

We left Frszee early in the morning and headed north to Itasca Lake State Park.  The park has several entrances and several visitor's centers.  We finally go to the right one, the Mary Gibbs Center, looked around for stuffed rabbits and bought a t- shirt instead.  Walked down the trail where the river flows out of Lake Itasca.  There is quite a story about who and how finally determined which lake was the actual source.  Apparently it was a Mr. Schoolcraft who figured it out.  There is a lot of "bad" history with the Indians who were removed and replaced and then lied to, and promises made were not kept..

After walking across the river on some well placed rocks, we headed downstream.  We found our way by using a Great River Road app on our phone.  Without this app, we would not be successful.  The roads we go on are so small that they are not on the statewide map.  The other way to get directions is by looking for signs along the road and and at junctions.  The sign has the logo of the Great River road which is a green steamboat steering wheel.  The river winds back and forth everywhere, and our roads constantly crossed over the river.  We took pictures at each bridge to document how the river gets wider.

We stopped at Schoolcraft State Park for lunch.  Read a sign about ticks and decided to refrain from walking in tall grass.  There is a boat ramp here, and we walked down it right up to the river's edge.

We continued downriver (can't give a direction because the river only goes down.....not south.)  We stopped at a Wayside which is much much smaller than a Rest Area and spent the night there.  In the evening and through the night there was a massive storm - rain, hail, wind, thunder, lightening.  Wind was blowing rain through the windows which we had to close up which made the camper pretty hot.  The Wayside was on the shores of the Big Sandy Reservoir which is really big.  The area is very historical.

Driving gets tricky sometimes when we need to leave the Great River Road (as shown to us on our phone app) and go into a town or another road in order to find a store or a place for the night.  In one place, Aiken, MN, our route, which was Highway 210, was closed and there was a detour.  What was tricky is that we didn't know where the detour ended and if it would be near the Great River Road.  We ended up finding our own country roads that took us to the north of 210.  We never came upon whatever was causing the detour and we found the road just fine.  Good thing we had our Camino Experience which was a six week problem solving experience.

Day 5 - Friday - September 17

Headed downriver.  Drove through St Cloud and parked in a library parking lot where there as a trail access down to the river.  

We're finding a lot of dams now along the river.  In the late 1800 and early 1900s, dams were built to ease steamboat travel up the river.  Now it is kind of a shame.  I'd rather have a free river.  I think the lakes formed by the dams provide a lot of recreation.

Speaking of recreation.  There are thousands of lakes everywhere.  You can't see them all because there are trees between the lakes and the highway.  (I'm sure early loggers cut all the original trees down, and present day residents have planted a bazillion pine trees along the roads).  Along the road there are, too numerous to count, signs indicating this resort or that resort or my resort or the other resort.  Additionally there are mailboxes at the road's edge with a small driveway going back into the dark trees where some retired person has probably built his forever vacation home.

We stopped at the Fort Ripley historical site where there was a fort built in the 180'0s to control the Indians and settlers.  Now there is a big army national guard fort.  It is used mainly for winter warfare training.  We ate lunch here.

We headed south toward Minneapolis/St Paul.  It was creepy to drive into a huge city after being in the countryside for the past five days.  I didn't like it.  But.....I wanted to go to the Mall of America (silly me) because I had heard of it.  Yes, it is a huge mall with an amusement center in it.  Roller coasters and all sorts of stuff.  It really reminded us of the malls in Astana which were built to shock and awe patrons.  And it does.  But I prefer Clackamas Town Center.  We went to the food court to see how magnificent is was and found a magnificent Chick-Fil-a, and that was the end of cooking mac and cheese in the camper.  The closest rest area was about twenty mile south of Minneapolis.

The other reason we wanted to come to this big city was to go to a couple of museums that have relevance to the Mississippi River. 

Day 6 - Saturday - September 18  

This was a good day. After breakfast we backtracked and headed north to go back to Minneapolis/St Paul because we wanted to go to two museums in the city,  First was the National Park Service Mississippi River Visitor Center.  We entered with high hopes which were dashed by what we found  There were just a lot of feel good photos but nothing of real worth - we wanted history and photos of the river that taught something.  We then tried the next museum, The Minnesota Museum of History and struck out again  They had great stuff but nothing on the river.  

We headed south and crossed the river into Wisconsin where we found the the Great River Road Visitor Center in Prescott, Wisconsin,  It was great!!!!!!  We learned so much new stuff.  The location was on a high bluff over the river and there were many speed boats going up river.  They had to go slowly in one area but as soon as they reached a certain point, the engines revved up and the boats shot forward

We crossed back into MN and went to the National Eagle Center for a visit.  It is not a rehabilitation center but an information center so much.  There were three eagles who were "ambassadors".  They wee all in their 20s.  It was a really great place. .....we bout an eagle hand puppet.

They we headed south and found a great rest area  right near a bridge that crosses over to LaCrosse, Wisconsin. 

Day 7 - Sunday - 19th

In the morning we realized that our rest area was adjacent to  Dam and Lock No 7.....of the 24 dams and locks on the Mississippi.  We headed over to take a look.  How lucky could we be???? A tug boat and twelve barges were situated to enter the lock and go through.  It was a very slow process.  The barges were pushed into the lock and then the front six were disconnected from the remaining six.  Those six on the end were pulled back out of the lock by the tug boat.  The forward six went through.  Ten the process began again to get the aft six through.  Really interesting to watch. There was also a visitors center with great descriptions of how locks work and showing all the locks on the river.


There was a geocache hidden in the area We found it.....a geocaching bird house with a take entrance.  It was hung in a tree.  We'd never seen one like this before.

Next on the days trip was a visit to Caledonia, Minnesota where Grandma Jessie Gray was born in 1870. The drive took us away from the River Road, but the scenery was worth it - picture perfect or puzzle perfect farm landscape.  We wondered by Grandma Jessie's parents wanted to relocate by going to Eugene, Oregon...probably very little snow in Oregon.

 Our map showed a National Park Monument along the way - Effigy Mounds National Monument.


Hmmm.. had never heard of effigy mounds.  Turns out this area, and many other area in the US, have these mounds which were built  eons ago by indigenous people - 10,000 years ago.  They are burial grounds or ceremonial mounds or mounds to commemorate something.  The are all over!  Some are shaped like bears or birds. Some are rows mounds which are aligned with summer and winter solstices.
It was a really interesting place with great displays

"To survive, people must know that they are part of the natural world and live in harmony with it."

On our map was another suggested stop.  The Motor Mill Historic Mill.  I was quite a ways out of our way, but we decided to go anyway......we shouldn't have.  Even though we'd checked online, the place was closed.  Not only closed but only open on two weekends of the month for six months of the year.  It was in an interesting area with the Turkey River flowing under an interesting bridge,  but the whole side trip was not worth the effort.

We headed back east to get back on the River Road.  An interest feature about driving on this road is that, in general, it goes through small forgotten cities along the river.  Some of the cities are really nice with fancy homes dotted along the way with big picture windows facing the river.  Others are not only forgotten but also seem to be lost in disrepair.  There will be the river, then some land with mobile home raised up on concrete blocks to avoid the rising river waters, the a train track, then the River Road, and then some other houses whose front doors are practically on the road.

Spent the night at a rest area  between Bettendorf and Le Claire, Iowa.  Had never heard of them before and will like not remember them either.  The rest area is HUGE - not huge parking area but a huge building.  The women's bathroom has probably twenty booths and a beautifully decorated lobby with benches  and little desks (where I am right now) for writing letters home, I guess.

 



Tomorrow we will go to the Buffalo Bill Museum and Le Claire and then head south into Illinois. on our wat to Nauvoo.









!

Sunday, September 12, 2021

 Obsidian Limited Entry Area - Week 36 - August 30, 2021 to September5, 2021

This was such a good week - because we (Bev, Olga, Julie Reed, and I) Hiked to a most beautiful place.  The Obsidian Limited Entry Area has everything - trees, lava, rivers, creeks, springs, waterfalls, alpine meadows, bluffs with stupendous views....everything except waves and a sandy beach.

Day one -the drive to the trail head is about 3 hours.  We tried to leave early at 7:00 but it turned out to be more like 8:30.  We headed out, hiked the five miles to Sunshine Meadow and then made our camp in the trees to the north of the meadow.














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We finally reached Sunshine Meadow!!!  We were overcome by the beauty of what we saw.













Day 2 =  We woke up to really super cold temperature.  We were not expecting this.  There was ice in the stream.





We had a decision to make.  Originally we had decided to hike up to Lake Arrowhead and spend the second and third day there.  But the elevation is much higher and the area is more exposed that we were down at Sunshine Meadow nestled in the trees.  We figured night two and three were be too cold up at Lake Arrowhead, so we decided to do a day trip up to the lake instead.  I was disappointed, but it was a correct decision.  

We headed up the mountain...about a mile plus to Lake Arrowhead.











































Then we headed back down to our camp.







Day Three - September 1, 2021 - my birthday
We woke up to an even colder morning.  I'd slept with the water filter in my bag so it wouldn't freeze.  But as soon as we hung it up to filter water, ice formed on the filter, and only a dribble of water emerged.  Fortunately we'd collected enough water the night before.  There was ice forming on the surface of the stream and crossing it on the icy rocks was slippery.  Our plan was to walk south on the Obsidian Plain, pass by Sisters Spring, and stop at Obsidian Falls and read our books in the sunlight.





The photo below shows where we'd been the previous day - up on the bluff.  to get there we hiked us the valley on the left and then up side of the valley to the right.





Sunrise








The source of Sister Spring.  We replenished our water.


Then we followed the flowing water to the falls, our destination









At the top of the falls






And the bottom of the falls


We sat in the sun for a long time, reading, and enjoin the alpine experience.







Then we headed back









Broke camp.  Hiked back to the car and past these big logs that had fallen during the icy winter.









We had planned to have dinner at Poppa Al's but it was closed - -only 6:00 pm. l So we drome further toward home and stopped in Mehama and ate at The Little Gingerbread House...which turned out to have good hamburgers!