#9 - Walking the Camino - April 30, 2016

7th day of walking

Villamayor de Monjardine to Torres de Rio

Book - 12.06 miles

Map My Walk - 13 miles. 5 3/4 hours

Fitbit- 33,795 steps, 14.41 miles

We left this morning super early (6:45) mainly because a Brit who sat at our table at dinner warned us that this weekend is a national holiday like our Labor Day. Who knows if she is right or not, but she warned that lots of places would be closed, that Spainards walk part of the Camino, and albergues may fill up early. I hate to buy into presumptive fears but that's why we left so early. If we would not have gotten a bed here in Torres, the next place was 5 1/2 miles away. 

As we left this morning you can see the town so close to the top. 

The trail was not near any main roads - just farm roads occasionally used by farmers. 

Same crops as before with this addition-Raised beds with weed mat on top.  We could not figure out what would be planted there. 

The weather was quite unpredictable. Twice it started to rain - not really raining - just sprinkles blowing in from afar. Blue sky above, sun shining. The wind was blowing ferociously. It seemed time to put on our rain capes. Then it stopped. We continued to walk awhile daring the rain to begin again. 

The wind blew all day - more than I've ever experience for such a long duration. We lowered our heads, braced ourselves, and pressed forward hoping we wouldn't miss any trail markers. We both got really cold after being in the cold wind all day. 

Finally got to Torres de Rio and got two beds at Casa Mariela. 

The activity of peligrinos is 'walking '. So, it's hard to arrive early in a little town like this. There is nothing to do.  Well, I suppose if we were drinkers, we would drink the local wine. There are no shops open, no peacefull parks to sit in, and really, in these ancient hill towns  everything is pretty much the same. And, dang, I finished the book I brought from home

This town is noted for an unusual octagonaly shaped church. It is of the 11th century era but its origins are unknown. Legend has it that the Knights Templar used it (yeah, right). Also, in the movie, The Way, this is where Martin Sheen and the others almost rented a dorm room from that crazy guy who was dancing by himself.              

The wind has died down a bit and we're all out side sitting in the plaza in a spot of sun trying to warm up

#8 - Walking the Camino - April 29, 2016

Day 6 of walking

Lorca to Villamayor de Monjardin

Book - 10.56 miles

Map My Walk - 11.91 miles, 6 hours

Fit Bit 30,403 steps, 12.96 miles

Similar country side today....but we liked yesterday better because there was more farmland and we were beside a river. 

We left just shortly after the crack of dawn because we wanted to make sure to get to our destination before all the desireable albergues were filled. It's a little tricky planning your distances. If we can really only do 10-13 miles a day without nearly dying, then you want to stay within a mile or two of that preferred village. Today our preferred town is Villamayor.......but after that, the next town is 7.5 miles away - way too far away. Thus our plan to leave at first light. 

See?  Really early, long shadows on the trail. We tried for our heart shaped pose but it looks like a giant clothes pin. 

We ate breakfast at the first bench we came to - trying to eat quickly so few other early rising peregrinos would pass us. 

Let me tell you about bread. The very best is the yummy artisan bread - the kind that causes abrasions on the roof of your mouth. You can't always find that. In Pamplona we got some non artisan bread in a grocery store and found it was awful. Reading the bag after we bought and tried to eat it, we determined it was non gluten, non lactose, non wheat and non swallow able. We actually left it on a park bench for someone in great need. 

So for today's breakfy and lunch we took a chance again and bought little soft buns that turned out to be sweet and yummy. Not exactly suitable for salami but then were pilgrims.  Made by Bimbos which added to our worries. 

I left one for another homeless man on a bench. 

Some random pictures. 

Previously we'd seen the big wind turbines. Today we saw a cowboy windmill. 

Donkeys - that did not like the fact that we were behind them

More flowers for Jessica and Bev 

Our new favorite drink. AquArius. 

A sign on outskirts of Estella that the ancient Codex Calixtinus ( the original guide book) that describes, "Estella is full of good bread and the best wine and meat and fish, and plenty of all good things."

We found this "fortress" church up a long flight of steps. Was it actually opened?  Dad said he saw an open door, so up we went 

Outside door open but interior door seems closed

A leap of faith and the door opens

Went inside, but I couldn't determine the style or year of the crucifix. But the arch over door was nice with Arab influence.

Finally got through the city of Estella. (I've decided I don't like cities any more.)  In the distance we saw

Oh no!!!!!  Surely we don't have to go up- over-down. Surely not not to the top!

The trail is taking is directly. We can see a ruin on the top

Got to our preferred alberge but it was "completo". I knew we should have left earlier this morning. We were directed to go up the road (literally up) and around to a casa rural which is a bed and breakfast-a higher eschelon of accommodation ----but super comfy. 

Back yard with our clothes drying

And looking out our bedroom window--- yes the tip of the mountain with the ancient castle. So we almost went all the way to the top after all 

We're going to a bar now - for dinner. Hopefully it has wifi so we can send this. 

#7-Walking the Camino- April 28, 2016

Walking day 5

Muruzabel to Lorca

Guide book - 10.5 miles

Map My Walk - 12.5 mi, 6 hr 50 min

Fitbit - steps 31,455, 13.42 miles

Hmmm - guide book and elec devices aren't matching up very well

We left early this morning at about 7:30 and it was cold

Most entries in our guide books refer to churches and bridges. The churches are mostly closed and, and honestly, to us, they are all the same. We just can't distinguish a 14th century Y shaped crucifix from anything else. 

But bridges and roads - we're good with them. Outside Puente la Reina there is an 11th century 6-arched Romanesque bridge that we liked. It is really much higher than it appears in the photo because of the shadows. 

And on the outskirts of another little town there are the remains of a Roman bridge and a Roman road. In fact we walked for long distances on Roman roads today. The outer edges of the road have really big stones and the space in between are filled with smaller rocks. Sometimes the entire road is visible - other times just half. 

We ate lunch sitting on a wall in an olive orchard. The road was at the base of the road. We figured that wall was built long ago by Roman slaves

Again the whole day we walked through farm country and beautiful views

Waves of grain

Olive orchard

Grape vineyards

Sheep. The Shepard was asleep on the road's edge

Spain has hill towns just like Italy. Can you see it in the distance and then artfully framed by olive trees?

As we approached this town, Cirauqui, we looked at each other and asked, " do you suppose we go up - over - down?  Or do we get off easy and walk around?" Yep - you guessed it. First option

We found this bit of agriculture produced by someone who is either retired or who is procrastinating doing something urgent. 

There are lots of farm canals alongside roads and lanes. They're quite deep and we seldom can see the water, but we hear gurgling from the depths. Then there is this airborne canal (maybe it should be an aquaduct). I tried to be artistic like Bev would be. 

We ended the day about 3:00 which was probably too early, but Dad's foot was hurting (whisper here in hushed tones ---blister).

Checked in to our alberge. Very comfortable. 

Going to dinner now then to bed. We need to start early tomorrow so we can get a room early in afternoon before there is a rush of pilgrims at Reception.