#39-Walking the Camino-May 30, 2016

Reminiscing

1 - What we really liked about the Camino-

DAD

It was nice to be together all the time. 

It was a physical challenge

It was interesting to meet the people

I loved all the colors-grass, sky, flowers

MOM

I loved the vast emptiness of the meseta. 

I loved discovering new things like silage, horreos, grape vineyards, rape seed fields

I loved all the flowers along the path

I loved meeting the Allreds. 

2- what we really did not like on the Camino

DAD

I didn't like it when I got blisters.

I didn't like the crowded albergues when we had bunk beds in a big room with strangers. 

I didn't like that we needed to reserve ahead of time and couldn't be spontaneous 

MOM

I didn't like not being able to eat when I wanted to. Breakfast is at 7:00. Dinner is at 7:00 to 9:00. If you want a sandwich for dinner, it's impossible because it is not lunchtime. 

I didn't like that our conversations with all, except the Allreds was: where are you from, what kind of work do/did you do, why are you doing the Camino?

I didn't like reserving rooms ahead and the anxiety of making the reservations. And then when you get to the next place, you aren't really sure you bed hasn't been sold to someone else. 

3- three things you won't forget about the  pilgrimage

DAD

It really is possible to do hard things

Every hill has a top as long as you keep going

Sometimes it's easier to go up instead of coming down

MOM

I loved getting up in the morning and knowing we had to walk (press forward) even if it was cold or windy or rainy or sunny or warm. 

I loved the delineated purpose to the day-we had to walk a certain distance to a certain town to keep on schedule

I loved being outside most of the time. 

4-What did I expect to get out of the Camino

DAD

I expected a great adventure and it was. 

We just started walking and did not stop. We don't do that at home. 

MOM

I expected to be able to walk easily, after all I am a hiker. But it was difficult to do it on a daily continuous basis with a certain number of miles that needed to be covered

5- what were your concerns before starting the Camino

DAD

One part of me was afraid it would be too difficult, but I felt if we pressed forward we could do it

MOM

I really had no concerns

6- What did you think about while walking

We thought about our children and wondered what they were doing. We looked forward to their texts and emails. 

7- in what ways are you looking forward to going home

DAD

In all ways. I have a lot of things to catch up on

MOM

I'm looking forward to our summer activities with our grandchildren. 

8- if you were to do the Camino again, what would you do differently

DAD

make sure my feet were in better condition

MOM

it would be nice to do it with another couple like a child and their spouse

9- how will you celebrate when you get home

DAD

Go to podiatrist

MOM

Eat a hamburger!

10-what did you learn on the Camino

DAD

I gained a greater appreciation for my family and my country 

I learned that I can put everything I needed in my pack and then walk and not depend on anything else. We were able to exist in whatever the situation. We lived very simply. But I do love the Internet!

I got a greater perception of distance and time. I would see a hamlet in the distance and realize that in two hours we'd be there. In a car, it'd be ten minutes

MOM

I learned that when you are trying to get to the Tree of Life, it really is better to hold on tightly to the Iron Rod. Pay attention, look for the signs, follow the map, think, have a strategy, but don't let go because sometimes it hard to get back if you become lost 

I learned that you need to be flexible. If things become difficult, you shouldn't just quit. Maybe you need to adjust your goals, change your perception of success. You always need to be supportive. 

I had never before walked completely through a town. It's a totally different perspective from driving a car. Like when we left Burgos and walked three miles in an hour or so just to get to farm land.

I learned that sky blue and field and forest green are still my  favorite colors

#38-Walking the Camino-May 29, 2016

3rd day of exploring Santiago 

I am really thankful we got to the Cathedral at 3:00 pm and got front row seats for this event which we learned about from this poster taped to a glass window on one of the many small chapels situated around the inside of the cathedral. 

First things first. We were determined to visit the Pilgrimage Museum- especially after our complete failure to find the correct one yesterday. Granted, we did find the one in the guide book at the noted address but it was definitely closed.  Not to leave anything to chance, we told the taxi driver to go to the "new" one-not the "old " one. Miraculously he understood perfectly. We were a bit dumbfounded and annoyed when he dropped us off, because we had walked by it many times and there was a big sign on the front of the building. I'm blaming it on the lady at the pilgrim tourist place who said, "go up the stairs  and that way.....as she bent her arm to the right and twisted". 

It was a GREAT museum. Ultra modern facility across the plaza (and up the stairs to the right) from the cathedral finished in the 1200's. There were so many displays that helped us understand everything about the pilgrimages in general and the Santiago one in particular. Lots of paintings, sculptures, artifacts, models and so forth. All the displays were really meaningful to us and probably to other pilgrims. What I like best is how James the Apostle was used over the centuries to become what the church or the royalty, or the common people wanted. Church - a saint's relics to promote Santiago as a destination place which promotes wealth. 

Knight/Soldier - helps a ruling King to justify his empire building 

Common Pilgrim - an example of piety and the desire to follow Jesus' teachings. 

On the third floor there was this skylight that offered a great view of the cathedral's towers.

And we liked this recessed hand rail with indirect lighting.  

We were in the museum from open to closed (10:15 to 1:45).  Then we headed to the Alameda which is Santiago's green space and a perfect place for our picnic lunch. Lots of kids playing on tricycles and scooters while their parents sat on the grass. Lots of adult children out walking with their parents. 

There were several structures and we thought flea market!  Or food?  No- book stall. One had some books in English and I bought one to read on the way home. 

Then we headed back into the old city to go to the cathedral for what we hoped would be the big event. 

Here's potential dinner

We had contacted a friend of Warren's named Elliott Wise. He has his Ph.D. In Art History and now teaches...probably art history.....at BYU. He wrote us the following which will describe to you what was going to happen. 

_______________

WOW!  You picked the most ideal time imaginable to be at Santiago de
Compostela.  It's one of my dreams to go to that most famous of
pilgrimage sites during the Middle Ages, and I cannot think of a
better occasion (other than perhaps the Feast of St. James) to be at
Santiago!  You might want to also attend the Solemn Mass at 7:30 pm
before the procession.  From the poster it looks like the archbishop
will be celebrating the Mass, and there will be lots of beautiful
music and pageantry.  At the end of the Mass, the archbishop will have
a liturgical cloth placed over his shoulders so that he can hold the
monstrance without touching it with his hands (that gold and silver
receptacle in the poster with the round window through which you can
see the Sacramental bread, or "Host" is a monstrance).  Then, amid
lots of incense, he will solemnly bless the congregation, making the
sign of the cross with the monstrance.  Usually they carry the
monstrance under a canopy through the streets with lots of incense,
singing, etc.

There were many extremely precious monstrances made for occasions such
as this during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, and I bet for
Corpus Christi Day, Santiago might just get one of those old ones out
of the church treasury to use.  So if it looks like there are jewels
and gold on the monstrance, they're probably real! Most Corpus Christi
processions include a very famous medieval hymn written by St. Thomas
Aquinas called, "Pange lingua gloriosi," which they should chant for
at least part of the procession.  It's very solemn and reverent
sounding.

Well, I'm extremely envious of this magnificent opportunity that you
will have!  Please do take lots of pictures.  I'm actually going to
Corpus Christi Mass myself in Salt Lake City at the Cathedral of the
Madeline this Sunday with a friend and then to her ward afterwards.
I'm afraid it won't be as grand as the celebration at Santiago de
Compostela, though!
_____________________

So, we were there 3:00 to get the best seats and wait. 

 You know how a cathedral is designed--

The pews are arranged in the shape of a cross like this and you can see where we were sitting

Nobody in front of us. Yes!!!  Not much happening. Tourists milling around. Very hard wooden seats. 

Time passing   Time for a WC break. One at a time (in order to save seat)...out south door-around to west side- cross plaza- down long set of stairs-back up stairs- around cathedral  to east door (Door of Pardon)- back to seat. 

Wishing I could lie down on pew but that would not be reverent. 

Some new activity. Priests appear. Setting things up for 6:00 mass. And mass begins and ends 

Then things really start happening. Gas candles are suddenly flickering on the alter, ceiling lights come on way up high, lights brighten behind the alter. Many priests in all different garbs setting up things. 

A lot of people show up- mostly women in nice church clothes. And there we were in our not particularly clean hiking pants and shirts- but we were very reverent. It was like at home, in church, where everybody sits in their usual seats. We were definitely in someone else's seat. This matronly short lady comes up, looks at us, bends over to talk to the two women on my right, looks at Dad, and then wiggles in beside him, and we shift one bottom's space to the right. 

A security guy steps to the microphone and says clearly in two languages.  TURN off your phones and PUT AWAY your camera. 

Lots of bustling going on.  In and out thru the space cordoned off.  People who take the offering are getting their red collection bags. Wait!  The cords are removed and two VIP couples come in sit down right in front of us!!! You could tell they were either politically powerful or rich, or big contributors, or all three. Everybody was greeting them, kissing both cheeks, and so one.  I figured they were nice folks and didn't mind that their heads were blocking my view. 

Then a hush fell over the cathedral - like in General Conference when Ptesident Monson walks on the podium.  And right in front of us the Archbishop of Santiago  enters and goes up to the altar.   Mass begins and ends very much like the one in Leon 2 or 3 weeks ago. 

It's over and now lots more bustling. The mobile altar enters it is all covered but you can see the pneumatic tires underneath suitable for pushing on cobblestone streets 

Someone hands the golden monstrance to the Archbishop, and he puts the host (a communion wafer for use during sacrament) in place. Then the canopy is brought up by six slightly clumsy men. 

Suddenly it is over the Archbishop , and he is walking down the stairs right in front of me!!!!

The entourage now heads for the south door. The crowd is like after a football game as everybody is going out the same door. But it is reverent - quiet, at steady pace like you'd march to a sacrament hymn. Now we're outside. There is a marching band playing, along the way there is a choir singing at several spots. The choir finishes singing, the marching continues, and because of a lot of pre planning the choir shows up later having probably gone through stores and back alleys 

Tossing flower petals

Guys pushing the vehicle. 

This is the VIP who sat in front of us. He's part of the parade not like me running up the side to take photos. He is really quite attractive, and the photographer simply didn't get a good shot. 

 

Some carried candles

Banner with sword of the knight, St James 

Here's VIP again. No, I am not stalking him

We've now gone around an entire block and ended up at base of stairs at the south door. 

See the guy in the orange jacket. He is a civil police security guy. You could see orange jackets throughout the procession

Now the monstrance had to be removed. This guy got up on a step stool to grab it. I swear he almost bobbled it!

But recovered  and carried it up to the Archbishop 

Then the Archbishop showed the monstrance to every one, said a prayer, and it's over

He then spoke extemporaneously for   

a loooong time. Too long. Then everybody clapped and it was really over. 

Back to the hotel. It was so late that we were eating dinner st 9:30

What a day!

#37-Walking the Camino-May 28, 2016

The 2nd day of exploring Santiago 

It rained torrentially all through last night. Around dawn I was still asleep (at least my eyes were closed) when there was a tremendous burst of light which I could see through my eyelids. Then there was the nearly simultaneous crack of lightening and a terrible rumble of thunder. I nearly levitated off the mattress. Honestly, I expected to hear the sound of hotel emergency alarms (whatever they might sound like), or smell a burning fire, or hear the crumbling of walls. But there was only pounding rain. 

So today I am thankful we were not struck by lightening which would have been so sad, especially since we were newly minted peregrinos who had walked through the EAST door of the cathedral. 

Breakfast was a full buffet of actually good breakfast food.  The best breakfast in Spain - anything would be better than the normal two pieces of toast and hot chocolate

We finally made it into Santiago - we had waited quite a while for the rain to stop. Our goal was to explore the cathedral in an organized manner and go through the cathedral museums. 

As I see it, there are five big must see/do

activities.

The first is to enter through the west door and walk under the Portico de la Gloria. Here is the west door (you saw this yesterday).  But notice the scaffolding which means you can not go under the portico!!!  The portico is a super famous sculpture by Mateo. Fortunately the museum had a big display showing how the restoration work was being done. 

Right in the center is the Tree of Jesse which depicts the family tree of Jesus. Google Tree of Jesse, to understand what you missed in Sunday school. Here are photos I got from the Internet cuz you can't see it now. 

Bottom and top of pillar. 

Over the centuries pilgrims have placed their hands on the base of the tree and have worn finger holes in it. It is no longer permitted to touch your hand to the Tree of Jesse. After the restoration, maybe a thick plastic shield will protect the stone from people's sweaty hands. 

The museum was really fantastic showing all that was being done with the restoration. Here is a before and after of one of the spires. 

And a photo of a big poster of St James. 

There is so much symbolism embodied in all the carvings that, if I tried to explain it, I would either boggle your mind or bore you to death. I took lots of photos which will be stored for eternity in the cloud. 

Second is to climb the stairs behind St James  and put your hand on his shoulder - did this yesterday. 

Third is to go down into the crypt and view the silver reliquary- did that yesterday. 

Four is to be at a mass where the big 175 pound botafumeiro,which is the largest censor for spreading incense smoke in the world, is swung back and forth from a pulley system high above the alter.   

The only time you can be sure to see this spectacle is on Friday at the 7:30 pm mass. And we were there!  Settled in the incredibly uncomfortable wooden pews (I'll never complain again about our cushioned pews in the chapel), we were there at 6 :30 prepared to wait for an hour. Then.......an announcement over the loudspeaker, "Due to safety concerns, the botafumeiro will not be swung tonight.  Lo siento."  Well, that was a bust!  We weren't the only people in the packed cathedral who quietly got up and left. 

Five: during Holy Years (when St James Day of July 25 falls on a Sunday), the Puerta de Perdon (Door of Pardon) which is the entrance on the east side of the cathedral, is opened and pilgrims can enter and leave through this door. I hear you wondering why this is important. This year has been declared by the Pope to be  a Year of Mercy and therefore a Holy Year and as such, by using this door you can receive full indulgences rather than the partial indulgences that a non-Holy Year bequests. So we used this door. 

Google indulgences to clarify what it means. 

Our next activity was to go to the Pilgrim Museum. What a frustrating afternoon!  We couldn't find it. We had the address but we couldn't find the street on our map. After asking for directions we finally found the building with a tiny note attached to the door saying that it had been moved to a different location. And then we still couldn't find it. 

Sigh. Then it started to rain. We gave up, got a taxi and went to the hotel to wait for dinner time.  Dutifully at 7:00 pm we went to the restaurant and were told dinner wouldn't be served until. 8:30. We couldn't believe it. So we ordered a sandwich from the bar

And so went the second day in Santiago.